Undercliffe

UNDERCLIFFE is set just to the north east of the city centre of Bradford, its main artery being Otley Road. The first mention of the area was, according to C. Arthur Sugden, in 1418, when a man named Robert Leggard was up before the Bradford Court ‘ ….charged with having taken stone from the lord’s soil, in his waste towards Undyrcliffe’.

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The now closed Robin Hood Pub, Harrogate Rd 2002 (Ann Birdsall)

The district was part of the moor of Bradford (now Bradford Moor). By 1611, Hundercliff, as it was then known, was a glebe in the West Riding of Yorkshire.  On Johnson’s map of Bradford (1802) most of Bradford Moor had been enclosed, and in the area of Hundercliffe the only buildings of note were a few farmhouses and Undercliffe House, built by John Hustler.  By 1880 however, a great transformation had taken place in the area. Undercliffe House was now surrounded by buildings.  Quarries had sprung up and buildings had appeared everywhere.

Undercliffe today is 600 ft. above sea level, higher than its original position.  There is little doubt that the district got its name from the fact that the earliest settlements were built ‘under-the-cliff’.  But the village was ‘forced up the hill’. The expansion of Bradford pushed the village further and further towards Eccleshill to where it is today.

Undercliffe was the setting for the legend of the famous Bradford boar. During the mid to late 14th century, there was a ferocious boar that lived in Cliffe Wood on the moors of Undercliffe. The boar frequently drank from a well in the wood. The boar terrorized the populace and caused much damage to land and property; so much so that the lord of the manor offered a reward for anyone brave enough to slay the boar and bring its head to the manor house.

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Cover of a poetry book by Dr Charles Forshaw, 1907.

A hunter took up the lord’s offer, and lay in wait near the well, ready to catch his quarry and thereby claim his reward. The boar duly arrived, and was shot by the hunter, who cut out the boar’s tongue as proof of his victory and set off for the manor house. A little time later, another hunter, who had heard of the lord’s offer, was passing through the woods and saw the slain boar lying near the well. Thinking of the reward he would receive, he cut off the boar’s head and he too set off for the manor house. Arriving there before the true victor, he claimed his reward for having disposed of the ferocious creature, but was unable to account for the boar’s absent tongue. The first hunter then arrived and explained the true circumstances of the defeat, showing the boar’s tongue as evidence of his veracity, and received his rightful reward; a plot of land called Hunt Yard in Horton.

Undercliffe today is renowned for its cemetery. It is possibly the most famous Victorian cemetery in Britain, outside of Highgate in London. Wealthy Victorians often lived quite modest, unassuming lives, but when they died they certainly left behind the most flamboyant memorials. Similar to the Egyptians, they showed a desire to display strength and prosperity in life and immortality and eternity in the after-life. The cemetery itself is not huge (around 25 acres) but it is crammed with magnificent memorials and monuments to the dead, especially those of the rich mill owners, wool barons and politicians of the Victorian era.  A walk round the cemetery today will reveal a mausoleum built like an Egyptian temple, complete with sphinxes, a Graeco-Roman temple with carved angels, and a Gothic steeple based on the Scott Monument in Princes Street, Edinburgh.  These are just some of the grander monuments. There are hundreds of other interesting, if less grand, gravestones of ordinary Bradford people, including many who died in the wars that affected the city from the Crimea onwards.

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The cemetery is set in a stunning location, with great views over the city centre and the city as a whole. It is not uncommon to see film and documentary crews at work in the grounds. Go and take a look some time. It is a place of peace and tranquility set amongst this bustling city.

Further Reading

Sugden, A.C. Eccleshill and Undercliffe, in R.C. Allan The History of Bolton in Bradford-dale Robert C. Allan, 1927.

Beesley, I. Undercliffe. Bradford‘s Historic Victorian Cemetery
Ryburn Publishing. 1991

 

 

New Family History Courses

Bradford Libraries in conjunction with Bradford College are pleased to offer two new courses.

The popular course, Family History for Beginners, is starting again at Bradford Local Studies and Keighley Local Studies Libraries.

Ilkley Library are pleased to announce the start of a new course: Discovering Your Family History Using Your Tablet.

Please see the posters below for more details.

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TabletIlkley

 

 

 

Humbert Wolfe, Bradford Poet

On 5th December the sculptured head of Humbert Wolfe, Bradford poet, was presented to City Library by Anthony Padgett, Sculptor. The sculpture was unveiled by the Lord Mayor of Bradford, Councillor Joanne Dodds, with a reading of Humbert’s poems by poet Stephen O’Connor.

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Humbert’s poem ‘Requiem’, published in 1927 is often read at Remembrance events.

Requiem: The Soldier

Down some cold field in a world outspoken
the young men are walking together, slim and tall,
and though they laugh to one another, silence is not broken;
there is no sound however clear they call.

They are speaking together of what they loved in vain here,
but the air is too thin to carry the things they say.
They were young and golden, but they came on pain here,
and their youth is age now, their gold is grey.

Yet their hearts are not changed, and they cry to one another,
‘What have they done with the lives we laid aside?
Are they young with our youth, gold with our gold, my brother?
Do they smile in the face of death, because we died?’

Down some cold field in a world uncharted
the young seek each other with questioning eyes.
They question each other, the young, the golden hearted,
of the world that they were robbed of in their quiet paradise.

I do not ask God’s purpose. He gave me the sword,
and though merely to wield it is itself the lie
against the light, at the bidding of my Lord,
where all the rest bear witness, I’ll deny.
And I remember Peter’s high reward,
and say of soldiers, when I hear cocks cry,
‘As your dear lives (’twas all you might afford)
you laid aside, I lay my sainthood by.’
There are in heaven other archangels,
bright friends of God, who build where Michael destroys,
in music, or in beauty, lute players.
I wield the sword; and though I ask nought else
of God, I pray to Him: ‘But these were boys,
and died. Be gentle, God, to soldiers.’

Bradford Local Studies library has an extensive collection of books and news cuttings by this best selling poet.

  • London sonnets (1920)
  • The Unknown Goddess (1925) poems
  • Humoresque (1926)
  • News of the Devil (1926) poems
  • Requiem (1927) poems
  • Cursory Rhymes (1927) poems
  • Others Abide (1927)
  • Dialogues and monologues (1928) criticism
  • This Blind Rose (1928) poems
  • Troy (1928) Faber & GwyerAriel poems
  • The Uncelestial City (1930)
  • George Moore (1931)
  • Snow (1931) poems
  • Signpost to poetry (1931)
  • Now a stranger (1933) autobiography
  • Portraits by inference (1934)
  • X at Oberammergau : A poem (1935) drama
  • The Pilgrim’s Way (1936)
  • The Upward Anguish (1938) autobiography
  • Out of Great Tribulation (1939) poems
  • Kensington Gardens in War-Time (1940) poems
  • Catalogue of printed books: the library of the late Humbert Wolfe (Sotheby)
  • Harlequin in Whitehall: a life of Humbert Wolfe by Philip Baggeley

Wibsey

Wibsey sits to the south-west of Bradford, at the top of one of the hills leading out of the city. The village actually stands at quite a height. Looking at an Ordnance Survey map, the 850ft contour line passes through the roundabout at the top of St Enoch’s Road and the land rises to 975ft at Beacon Hill. This must be one of the highest extensive urban areas in Britain. The population in 1991 was 5,357.

The village was mentioned in the Domesday Book as Wibetese. At that time the manor was granted to Ilbert de Lacy by William the Conqueror. The origins of the village name are still uncertain. It has been suggested that the name is an adulteration of “Wigbed’s Land” or “Wigbed’s Height”.

The manor of Wibsey at that time had a common, and the village was surrounded by the Forest of Brianscholes. This was a dense, dark place which offered cover to wild boar and even wolves. Villagers had to have their wits about them on dark nights.

The monks of Kirkstall Abbey  established the famous Wibsey horse fair. Drovers came here from all four corners of the British Isles to buy and sell horses. The fair’s heyday seems to have been at the start of the 20th century, before the start of World War One. Horses were run along Fair Road, Folly Hall Road and Reevy Road.  Additional markets selling various goods spread down Market Street, High Street and Smithy Hill, and even into the fields to the south of the village. You could buy anything from pots and pans to the famous Wibsey geese. There were also traditional fairgrounds, spectacularly lit at night. Much safer to wander around at this time than when the village was surrounded by the forest. The fair usually lasted from 5 October to 20 November. The final day was known as the ‘Ketty Fair’, on which all the horses and animals in poorest condition were sold off.

Wibsey Slack was home to the famous geese. They used to roam here quite freely and unconfined. It used to be regarded as a sign of impending bad weather if the geese left the slack and wandered into the actual village.

One of Wibsey’s most pleasant areas is its park. It is around 30 acres in size and was opened on 25 May 1885, after a grand ceremony. It has always been a popular recreational area with locals. There are sports pitches, a lake, flower gardens, children’s areas and an aviary. The park was once home to a strange attraction. In the 1930s visitors to the park were invited to relax in a ‘sitting room’ sculpted from plants and hedges. This novel arrangement was one of many sculptures produced by the first park keeper, James Walton.

Wibsey Park was built on Wibsey Slack. The area was to be enclosed by the lords of the manor in 1881, but a local councillor, Enoch Priestley, fought against this for the rights of the local people. The land was saved and the park created. Enoch Priestley became a local hero. He also campaigned for a new road linking the village to Bradford. When the road was completed Priestley was unofficially canonised by the locals. They named the road St Enoch’s in his honour.

Wibsey has had a varied industrial history. It was a popular coal mining area, though it seems the coal was of poor quality and was only mined near the surface. The Industrial Revolution arrived here in 1836 with the opening of the first mill. One of the famous characters of this time was Joseph Hinchcliffe. He ran the Horton House Academy and in 1826 started up a Sunday School in the old chapel on Chapel Fold. The school had over 100 pupils and helped boys and girls whose religious instruction would otherwise have been neglected.  Hinchcliffe carried out his teachings until ill health forced him to retire in 1834. However, no one came forward to replace him in the Sunday School, so rather than let the children down, Hinchcliffe decided to carry on teaching them from his home at Horton House. He was also a generous man. Every Christmas he treated the children to a Christmas dinner and each winter he would go round to the homes of the more needy boys and girls and instruct their parents to buy them new clothes at his expense. A true Samaritan of his day!

Today Wibsey is a popular commuter suburb for the city. The past seems to rub shoulders with the present here. Cobbled streets and ancient cottages still exist, many bearing the dates of when they were built. Wibsey has its modern face too. It has a thriving nightlife, based on the  pubs on the High Street, such as the Ancient Foresters, Swan and the Windmill. People travel from all over Bradford and from further afield, for a night out here. The village has all the shops and services you could wish for, mostly situated along the High Street. In fact you could live here quite comfortably without ever having to visit Bradford. This has helped Wibsey maintain a ‘village’ feel, even though it is only a few miles from the city centre.

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Wibsey High St. c.1900

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High St. 2002

This information was taken from “The Illustrated History of Bradford’s Suburbs“, by Birdsall, Szekely and Walker

The Bradford Territorials

On Saturday November 21st, Bradford Local Studies Library was proud to host a talk, “The Bradford Territorials” given by Tricia Platts of the Bradford World War One Group. The well attended event gave an informative insight into the Territorials, and particularly Bradford’s own Victoria Cross recipient, Samuel Meekosha.

There is a display about Samuel Meekosha in the Local Studies Library in Bradford.

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